Al Hofuf, a town full of interest!

Information about Al Hofuf ( courtesy of Wiki)

Al-Hofuf (Arabic ٱلْهُفُوف al-Hufūf, also spelled Hofuf or Hufuf, also known as “Al-Hasa”, “Al-Ahsa” or “Al-Hassa”) is the major urban city in the Al-Ahsa oasis in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia with a population of 858,395 (as of 2021). It is also known for being one of the largest date producers in the world, and for its old markets and palaces.

Historically Hofuf made textiles out of wool, silk, and cotton. The town was also renowned for its fruit of the date palm, the Arabs considering the khalasi variety of dates, locally grown in Hofuf, and also the fardh variety of Oman, among the best. As of 1920, the city was known for making coffee pots from brass and silver.

I didn’t really know what to expect from our day exploring Hofuf, to me it was just a place we had to spend time in to rest from the long drive to get there, before heading onwards.

But research showed there was plenty of interest to occupy us for a day, so after a good night’s sleep we headed out early to explore.

As we drove through empty streets, the realization hit us that it was Friday, Holy day and first day of the weekend in Saudi. Everything closes, people pray, rest and attend midday prayers…life starts again early evening. Hmm, were we going to miss everything and regret the error?!

Our first stop was the Fish market and as we drove into the old town, daily life for the immigrant workers, who make up so much of the workforce, was already in full swing.

The Fish market is small but was buzzing with vendors and buyers. Apart from the initial shock when we appeared, suspect they don’t get too many British tourists popping in and one a woman too, we were welcomed inside.

The staff are mainly Indian, most spoke some English and we were surrounded with friendly chatter and I was given allowance to take photographs from everyone whom I asked.

Healthy fresh fish and shellfish, Tuna, RedSnapper, Grouper, Barracuda, Hamour, Sheri, Blue crab, cuttlefish, prawns and a myriad of other smaller fish unknown to me were all on sale, tempting, but it’s not a cooking trip for me!

Not far away is the Qasr Ibrahim (palace) in the old town area.We had thought it would be closed when the Friday realization fell into place, but decided we would go and have a look. The outside is stunning and I expect the inside is worth a visit.

It was built in 1556 by Ali Ibn Ahmed Ibn Lawand Al-Burayki, the Ottoman governor of the time. The castle was renovated in 1801 by the Saudi governor Ibrahim Ibn ‘Ufaysan. Several historians believe that the castle was named after him.

Ibrahim Palace covers an area of 16500 square meters. Moreover, it is characterized by an architectural style that blends the Islamic and military features with the traditional architecture styles of Al-Ahsa region. Those styles are exhibited in the arcs, domes and ornamental designs.


In 2018, Al Ahsa Oasis (the reason why the town of Hofuf was created) became the fifth Saudi site to be registered on the Unesco World Heritage site. Qasr Ibrahim Mosque was included as one of the 12 sites.

The Sharia Dome school is opposite, a school for teaching Sharia and linguistic science. The main building is being renovated but the entrance area is complete.

Close by is the beautiful Al Koot Heritage hotel. It would have been lovely to have stayed here but a tad over our budget…

Behind the hotel a small area is getting a really funky face-lift…I loved it! Strong vibrant traditional colors with traditional design work slanted towards the new era…it will be a great place to visit when complete.

The old town has a long way to go before renovations are completed. Many of the mud brick houses are ruins, but what we saw, we loved!

Flashing round a corner leaving the old town we stumbled across this huge colorful mural, it certainly livened up the area…

Even the public toilets had a nice touch with a traditional design around the top. All of them in town have this design, makes them easy to spot!

Outside Hofuf there are some amazing rock formations to visit. The first mountain we arrived at , Jabal Shabah is home to an adventure park project, started around 2017 but it never became operational so it’s like gazing onto a ghost park. Empty water slides, cable cars suspended in the air motionless, empty suspension bridges, unused high ropes frames, all the infrastructure in place but it appears never used.

We found a road up to the top, we could see picnic tables and Gazebos set up to take in the magnificent views but a pretty mean looking road barrier stopped us getting in.

I’m sure that this project will somehow be revitalized as the location and views are stunning. It has a slightly unnerving feel about it at present, such huge amount of work and money and it literally hangs in suspension…

We pulled to the roadside lower down for photos but it was very hazy and the photos don’t do justice to the view of the town and the massive date plantations

We then headed to Al Qarah hill and cave, we found the little road that accesses the summit and marveled at some extraordinary rock formations and views, but didn’t go cave finding, not my thing!

Leaving to head towards the desert rocks we found ourselves amidst date plantations and came across a Heritage building, sadly crumbled, hopefully it won’t degrade further now it’s marked as a heritage site. Either a small fort or palace.

Heading out to the desert we passed through a massive equestrian area and just behind stood these beautiful rock formations, the smaller one is Jebel Arba and the larger is Jebel Dukhnah.

As many of you have realized from previous posts, I have a great love of doors. Hofuf did not disappoint in that respect, worthy of a separate post, watch for that to open up, any door lovers!

Evening saw us heading to the Souk Qaysariya…we were fairly early, arriving just before sunset but the atmosphere was starting to buzz, full of people shopping and dining and just socializing. The souk has been renovated beautifully and was one of the largest covered markets in the Arabian gulf and the oldest. It was established in 1822. The souk architecture features traditional Al Ahsa design with covered passages, has 422 small stalls selling clothing, herbs, embroidery etc, and was included in the Unesco World Heritage list in 2018.

One notable point for me is that all visitors are welcomed by young girls in traditional costume and slightly older girls who came to ask if we needed help to find our way and explain about the Souk. It was very refreshing to see such interaction…

On the road again…January 2024.

So the trip has begun.

An early start from Dubai had us traveling to Abu Dhabi with the morning commuters and then leaving them behind as we pushed on through 3 hours of excellent roads, but repetitive landscapes.

This end of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi mainly consists of Sabkha plains (The Sabkha is a translation of the Arabic word (سبخه), geologically referring to any form of flat salt-encrusted desert that usually lacks any significant plant cover due to the high concentration of salts and sediments where the level of groundwater is very low and may be zero in some locations.)

Not many interesting photo opportunities, so I limited myself to one…

View for a lot of the journey….

There is a peninsula that juts out into the Gulf just before the border which leads to Ghagha island ( now a military area and not accessible) which I visited in past years, this area was much more interesting and great for camping, just by the way!

We arrived at the border around 1pm and …ok, I’ve left it to the very last moment to give our destination, some readers familiar with the region have already guessed where I’m heading…the border is entry to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

It might sound like a strange country to visit but early in 2023, when my blogging of my journey failed, I was just about to cross the border into Saudi for the first time as a tourist. I will be writing up that journey but suffice to say I found it a fascinating and interesting country.

The visa is issued for a year (90 days maximum stay per year, multiple entry) so we have until February to utilize the remainder. As we already travelled in southern Saudi, it’s time to hit the North and West.

We crossed at the Al Batha checkpoint. It’s painless leaving the UAE, all port systems are connected so all our details and that of the car are in the system.A quick chat with the immigration agent about our trip as he was quite fascinated to hear where we were going, a drive across the heavily barbed wired no-man’s land and as we had entered Saudi before in the car, it took 5 minutes to show our passports and visas to be entered into the system, we were stamped in and waved over for a customs check. (see note at the end, if you are interested in traveling to Saudi for further information)

Being of sane mind, we were not carrying anything that is illegal in the Kingdom, and I don’t think we have a “smuggler” look about us…quite hard to see me anyway, dressed in my abbaya and hijab!

Car insurance must be bought on the Saudi side before leaving the border port, so that done, we headed out onto the road heading for our first overnight stop in the town of Hofuf.

Straight out of the border crossing, a nice welcome sign and an abandoned petrol station…

The very first change was the condition of the roads, rather a change from the pristine highways of the Emirates but hey-ho, onwards we go, pot hole watching! To be fair, the road North runs along the end of the Gulf and the same Sabhka conditions prevail along this coastline, in places to a greater degree.

more Sabkha, but it’s different, it’s Saudi sabkha…
Looks like it’s going to be a flat view for a while…

The Dakar rally is happening during our visit and the road was full of the logistics vehicles, moving equipment, tyres, even a mobile hotel ( didn’t look like a 5 star one, I have to say!) One Dakar rally car, when we finally reached a petrol station, swung into the forecourt. We kept passing a trio of Harley bikers, seemed to fit into the whole motor theme…

The Harley boys, Dakar support vehicle and the dire road surface….

We were both involved in desert rally events during my time in Dubai, the OH was very involved with the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge as Chief Marshall and Chief Pits Marshall at the F1in Abu Dhabi so there is keen interest in the ultimate event , the Dakar.

We are hoping to meet up with the rally route in a few days so will become Dakar watchers for a day… but I digress…the journey continued…

Now this route is a main route, used by Kuwaitis, Bahrainis and Qataris to travel to the UAE border, it also serves as a route to and from Riyadh to the border so we sailed past the first petrol station, confident of many more to come….Big mistake on our part!

Saudi roads are full of abandoned petrol stations, some recent, perhaps a result of the Covid lockdowns and some very old ruined ones, filled with drifting sand.

We had a little shock when the second tank started to flash empty , luckily the GPS and Google showed us the next one and we guessed that it would be a working one…slightly in trepidation as the kilometers matched what fuel was left…we hoped!

Qatar, turn right and there’s that Dakar truck again…

The turn for the Qatar border is on the coast. There was a very nice seaside park with a playground and cafes but we didn’t dare stop and waste any fuel…just caught a seaside sculpture of a pearl in shell, paying homage to the pearl fishing industry that was prevalent in these areas of the Gulf of Arabia in bygone times.

Pearl on the coast…

Finally we spluttered into the petrol station along with the Dakar car, filled up both tanks and headed off, won’t be making that mistake again on this trip!

Love seeing these Dakar cross-country rally cars…

Time to get to Hofuf, it had been a long day…

The road turns inland close to this point and runs through sand dunes, not huge but big enough to drift over the road, lots of “beware sand dunes”signs…bizarrely the dunes were mainly on the right side of the road.

Then finally Hofuf, which is one of the largest date producing areas in the world. The Date festival starts on the 18th January, sadly we will miss it.

We flashed past a couple of interesting Jebels ( mountains)on the way in, rising out of the desert landscape like eroded sentinels of the city, definitely to return to tomorrow!

Wonderfully eroded shapes…

To be visited…

A swift offload at the hotel, bathroom break and off to the delightful Topaz restaurant.Found on the very useful Trip advisor reviews it was a 5 minute drive from the hotel.A mix of Middle Eastern, Indian and some Western dishes, we opted for the mixed Tandoori grill plate. I think it was one of the best Tandoori I’ve ever eaten…will be returning tomorrow

Tasty Tandoori with fresh pomegranate juice….Yum!

A day exploring the sights of Hofuf tomorrow, I wonder what awaits us…

Route

Information

Saudi visa is applied for online at https://visa.visitsaudi.com/. Our visa was approved and returned with a couple of hours. Validity and cost information at the link.

Driving a car across: If it’s your car, car registration documents required, passport and visa. Car insurance bought at Saudi border, a variety of periods offered.

Recommendations

Accommodation in Hofuf: Lily hotel suites https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/lily-suite.en-gb.html

Reasonable price, breakfast not included. Large comfortable rooms with all amenities.

As an option we visited the Al Koot Heritage hotel.This looked lovely if you want to have some character and spend a bit more money!

https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/alkoot-heriatege.en-gb.html

Restaurant: Topaz Restaurant and Cafe https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g3238664-d6762399-Reviews-Topaz_Restaurant_Cafe-Al_Hofuf_Al_Ahsa_Eastern_Province.html

Unexpectedly great food.Recommend the Tandoori menu, lovely staff and great value.

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On the road blogging fails in 2023…

So my thoughts that I would blog as I go, on our mammoth Middle East driving trip in February/March 2023, were initially thwarted when my original site ran out of media space very quickly into my trip…as photographs are a large part of my blogging journey, that was a bit of a disaster as I’m using the WordPress ( seems to be Jetpack now) mobile app and it’s not as intuitive (for me) as using and writing the blog on the computer, but I was traveling light (no computer) and with phone data so easily available at low cost everywhere now, the idea was to write it up in the car as we travelled….then I had to create a new site which was quite fraught on the road in remote places, in and out of data zones….so I intended that it would all be written up once we arrived home in Cyprus …. trying to upload 30 photos on the road and the signal goes from full bars to no bars but it’s still showing 5G and then you find 3 random photos uploaded totally out of sequence….grrr…. for peace of mind my blog had a break!

It ended up being a year long break, and I have just sorted it all out as we are heading off on a new Middle East road trip…. I have a bit of work to do to catch up with some very exciting travel that we took in 2023, but for now….watch this space!

Hasik, Mirbat, Taqah, Salalah, Mountains, Wadis and Beaches…

(previously published on 9/3/2023 on vickystravelinthemiddleeastandbeyond.wordpress.com)

Hasik is a fishing port and also an access point, via Dhow to the Hallaniyat islands, also known as the Khuriya Muria islands. I’ve not visited, on my bucket list!

Along the coastline just north of Hasik, the cliffs tower above the road and water running off the escarpment has formed immense stalactites hanging down from the contours of the rock. It’s quite a sight to behold…

Onwards towards Mirbat, the road is cut along the base of the escarpment bordered by the sea.It’s a wonderful drive, there is very little traffic and any budding geologist would be awed by the strata and rock formations.

A few stops at favorite beaches along the way…

We added in a new little off road trip after Sadah. Sadah is a small coastal town and I just managed to spot two traditional old houses and caught them as we drove past…

We had been recommended to visit a part of the coastline we hadn’t explored before. The track takes you through wadis, some incredible strata and after much switchbacking up and over the small hills, to a beautiful remote bay…

As we had arrived a day early in Dhofar, we had the option to stay in Salalah and as we needed the car air conditioning re-gassing and a fix on the angle of the headlights, so we headed off to the Nile Hotel in Salalah to see if they had a room for us.

We have stayed at the Nile a few times, a range of different rooms and suites at very reasonable prices. If you have use of a car in Salalah it’s a great place to stay if you want to explore the area.Just room only, but plenty of restaurants to choose from in Salalah and our favorite, The Oasis club…

Air conditioning fixed , new headlights bought and fitted for a lot less than it would have cost in Dubai, we headed off to the Oasis club for dinner and drinks.

The Oasis club is located at Raysut next to the Port of Salalah.It’s a lovely restaurant to head to at sunset as the outside terrace overlooks the beach and sunset with a glass of wine is always enjoyable!

Views from Oasis club and the resident cat …

Salalah and the surrounding towns along the edge of the escarpment and on the coastal plains have a unique climate. From May to September the area has its own Monsoon season or Khareef as it is known locally. The land turns a lush green, mists and rains abound and people from other areas of the Middle East flock to Salalah for holidays and to take advantage of the cool climate during the months of their hot summers.

Along the beach near the old part of Salalah…

But in February the landscape looks very different. Parched of water from September to April, with only occasional storms the greenery disappears and a barren, stony vista appears. I’ve been here at both times of the year and the contrast is huge…some shots from Dhofar from last October and from this trip…

October, a month after Khareef has finished.Greenery still abounds…
February, 5 months after Khareef has finished, the land is burnt out now, waiting for the rains…

We always visit Taqah, a small town on the outskirts of Salalah.It is on a beautiful sweep of coastline and fishing, as always on this Oman coastline is part of life…. on this beach we find some unusual bivalves, so it’s always worth a visit and it’s a lovely walk along the beach…

At Taqah, along the seafront…

We spent a couple of nights in Mirbat. This historic old town is a favorite destination of mine. Mirbat was a involved in the export of Frankincense in ancient times, as far away as China. It was also the site of the 1972 Battle of Mirbat between Communist guerrillas on one side and the armed forces of the Sultan of Oman and their Special Air Services advisers.

In the centre of Mirbat is the historic old town. I have been coming here for many years and it’s sad to see the deterioration but now it’s a morbid fascination to see what buildings have collapsed and are beyond repairs. Anyone who has read my Mirbat posts will remember I have a favorite door…pleased to say it’s still there, but it doesn’t look too good now! 

Mirbat was named after the horse stall. Apart from being famous for exporting Omani frankincense , it was famous in the 9th century AD for breeding and exporting horses. As you drive into town you are greeted by horses on plinths on either side of the road.

Route map…

From Masirah to Hasik….

(previously published on 5/3/2023 on vickystravelinthemiddleeastandbeyond.wordpress.com)

Time to move on again, a big journey still in front of us, but visiting Masirah had been, as always, a lovely experience.

The last sunset on Masirah, Metal palm trees and civic decorations along the sea front…

We were booked on the 7.30am Government ferry. There are local ferries, which sit and wait for enough cars and lorries to fill it, then set sail. This can take half an hour or two hours, or you can take the Government one which leaves promptly at its departure time. My preferred choice! 

Today it was just us and three jolly local ladies in the family section. The ferry only had a few cars onboard, I suspect the early service ran at a loss today…

Shannah port on the mainland is where the ferry docks and is also home to a large fleet of fishing dhows. In the morning the dhows are unloading their night catch into the refrigerated lorries, which either travel to processing plants along the coast or off to the larger cities. The seagulls are frenzied when the catch comes in!

Dhows and Seagulls at Shannah port plus a White heron watching the action…

Onwards to Mahout, the closest town on the mainland to try to get some cash out of the ATM. My UAE card was rejected the whole time on Masirah, luckily an international one worked or we would have been scuppered as card payments are not common on the island, cash is king!

Mahout has a morning market which makes the main street busy, full of people shopping, going about their business or just sitting, passing the time of day with friends…

Street life, Masirah…

I managed to photograph a few of the traditional Omani doors and gates in Mahout…on this trip I have noticed that these old traditional metal doors are becoming fewer as the old properties are being knocked down or left to disintegrate….I’m glad I have a record from our travels…

Omani doors and gates, Mahout…

From Mahout we decided to revisit Khaluf, a fishing village 26 km off the main road south to Duqm. Quite a remote little place, fishing is the reason for its existence but it’s shores are also home to small Umbonium shells, namely the beautiful Umbonium eloiseae

Normally this is found in a pale pink colour, with some popping in an eye catching candy pink, these are found at Shannah and on Masirah island.

At Khaluf, they have a redder hue, with some deep red. It’s all a similar area with distances between each pocket where they are found, but the ones from Khaluf are quite special …

At Khaluf, on the tideline….
Fishing life and beaches at Khaluf…

Khaluf is also the start of white sand dunes, also known as the Sugar dunes. Beautiful to see but we didn’t go into the dune area as the car is fully loaded for the journey and we didn’t want to deflate the tyres for a quick drive in the dunes, so viewed from afar…

Sugar Dunes, at a distance…

Then to Ras Madrakah…another small village at the headland which juts out into the Indian ocean.This is another main fishing area, it seems the village solely exists for this purpose, there is nothing else in this lonely place….well, a few seashells of course! 

Ras Madrakah…

We left Ras Madrakah just before sunset and headed off down the very lonely roads and gravel plains of this part of the coast.We didn’t have a fixed plan for sleeping, either a rest house or a snooze in the car, it’s spacious and comfortable enough and the tent isn’t! 

Sunset on the road…

Time for some dinner, at Al Jazer, where we had previously stopped for petrol on past trips, there are several little restaurants lining the road. Dinner, which was a tandoori chicken and biryani rice in salubrious surroundings, was very good. Replete, we pushed on…

Dinner on the road…check out the outside wallpaper! Delicious dinner though….

Shalim is a lonely town on the route and we have stayed in the fairly basic rest house before, so we decided to stop there…we were fairly surprised to be told it was full, so we pushed on to Ash Shuwaiymiah where there is another rest house.

Normally a rest house costs 10 rials ( around 25euro, I suspect the locals price is much less)here we were asked for 25 rials! The OH went to look at the room, came back , said “No way” and we drove off. There is little care of these properties and they are very basic. As the name Rest house describes, a place for rest on a long journey, but not at 25 rials!

The next part of the journey from Shuwaiymiah to Hasik is on a road cut through the massive escarpment of the Jebel Samrahan range of mountains that separates this part of the coast from the lower coastline of Dhofar. It’s a thrilling road trip, but less so at night, more of a hang on to the hand grip and occasionally squeak “ Slow down!”

Few photo opportunities arise at night in this dark, mountainous area, but we did get a shot of the wall fossil we discovered several years ago ( noted on the GPS) 

in the rock wall….fossil perhaps….

Popping out of the escarpment run, we had been told by a kind Omani who had waved us down on the road that there was a Rest house in Hasik, so we found it quite easily after he had told us where to turn off the main road ( no discernible signage on the road we could understand, but probably a sign in Arabic ) and thankfully had a bed for the night! Handy to know about this place if you are ever doing this long run at night because the next place to stay is in Mirbat, another 120km down the road…

Hasik rest house…

I will just add here that Omani rest houses ( aka small hotel for travelers) are fairly basic, they provide a bed for a rest, private room and bathroom but the maintenance and cleanliness leaves a lot to be desired.As Oman is such a vast country, these little rest houses cover the needs of travelers and are a necessity. We are usually traveling with camping bedding and quite often I will use our bedding for sleeping. However some are better than others, but you don’t know that until you arrive! 

Route map…

Masirah…climbing Jebel Humr…

(previously published 4/3/2023 on vickystravelinthemiddleeastandbeyond.wordpress.com)

The centre of Masirah island is dominated by a spine of small mountains, only accessed by tracks through the wadis.

The highest point of the hilly backbone is Jebel Humr at a height of 274metres, a table-topped small mountain, part of the Mesozoic ophiolite sequence of Masirah.

I have always wanted to reach the top of Jebel Humr and during past visits we have circled the Jebel by car, using little off-road tracks, but it always looked impossible as there is an upper cliff below the top, with overhang.

During the pandemic I made an online friend , a younger woman who lives on Masirah and who had joined our facebook group about shells relating to Eastern Arabia. On our first trip to Masirah post-pandemic, we met several times , it was refreshing to meet a young woman from the island , we forged a lovely friendship and I knew that we would meet up again. She told me she had been to the top of Jebel Humr and would organize the walk/climb on our next visit.

In the meantime , last May, I had my second hip replacement…Climbing up to the top of mountains seemed unattainable and on our visit to Masirah in October 2022, my friend was not on the island so the climbing plan was moved on to our next visit, probably it was best, I’m not sure I would have made it back in October 2022, looking back on it now…

So, here we were, at the bottom of the track leading part way up the mountain, it was 6.00am, pre-sunrise and a good time to go. Amal had brought Abdul along to show us the route, as climbing to the top of this lonely place was something he did fairly often.

My friends and guides…

However, recent rains had washed the tracks away that he normally, tumbled boulders and scree down the slopes.

Abdul was like a mountain goat, finding the best route through, so the haul up to the scree below the top was done on the fly, but with help from the OH and Abdul, I managed to make my way up.

The top didn’t seem to far away, but it looked unachievable , scree and loose rocks and an overhang and a bit of a long drop to my right.

I will say at this point, I’m not good with heights, I lost my balance after the second hip op and became quite shaky when confronted with a downwards climb without any rocks to cling on to to support me. I do use a stick in rough areas for stability.

Abdul advised that this was the difficult part and pointed across the scree and upwards showing the route. I had a momentary panic as I glanced down at the drop but actually then thought, right this is now a personal challenge, two replacement hips, I am doing this! Otherwise all of us would have to retreat back to the cars and I would have failed… no way, this was something I had wanted to do for years, and I was doing it, albeit very carefully…

With lots of encouragement and help from the OH and Abdul we made it to the top, my thoughts of “How on earth am I going to get down this “were firmly buried so as not to ruin the “being on the top of Masirah “experience and we edged out of a rock channel onto the summit.

The sheer exhilaration of being on the top and having got myself up just made the whole experience so enjoyable. The top of Jebel Humr that is visible from the roads around the island looks like a flat tabletop mountain, which it is, but sneakily, to the East the mountain has another peak…well, should we push on up? Hmm… I made a quick decision that it would be pushing my luck to get up and down that one , so decision made , we wandered around the top of our level..and didn’t push it to the very top…not sure I would have survived that actually! At the level we arrived on , there is a helicopter landing area and a very rusty anemometer, apparently the top is used for helicopter training, there is a Royal Oman airbase on the island, so it sounds likely but possibly not recently, given the state of the equipment.

We descended to a lower plateau of the summit and discovered fossilized bivalves and a coral reef , this area is ophiolite, which was once an ancient seabed. The views of the West coast are magnificent and the bonus was 8 to 10 Egyptian vultures using the air currents to soar and glide above our heads….one even let me get close for photos, the climb was worth every moment on the top…

Now we had to get back down, I know the OH and my friends were slightly nervous on my behalf but lots of positive encouragement was forthcoming and I did think it was something I had to do, I couldn’t just ring for a helicopter! 

I went down much of the scree slope on my backside, the angle was so steep that standing upright made me feel that I was going to plummet face forward down the drop so, when in doubt sit down! Abdul took great care with me and helped through some awkward spots and finally we were back at the cars….it was an awesome morning and having achieved the top I was very proud of myself, with help from some very dear friends… 

Abdul and Amal…

Masirah…Mishaps, Beaches, Shells and inter-tidal life…

(previously published 28/2/2023 on vickystravelinthemiddleeastandbeyond.worpress.com)

As we had arrived on Masirah a day early, we had no hotel booking for the night, but we did have a new pop-up tent to christen that night so not worrying about a place to stay we headed off to our favorite beaches to pound out some kilometers and hopefully find a few shell treasures on the tideline.

A few treasures found on our first beach, we then beached hopped down the East coast of the island with the Indian ocean waves breaking gently along the shoreline, taking in the beautiful views of this wild coastline. There are currently a couple of Dhow wrecks along the East coast.One from several years ago which is now pretty much disintegrated but two are intact , the one below beached…

From June to September the monsoon or Khareef that dominates the Dhofar coastline further south also affects Masirah and the Indian ocean turns into wild and raging seas.

Early evening we drove back to Hilf, the ferry port and the only town on the island to get some dinner. We decided to eat at the Park inn, which serves an excellent curry and fresh juices and then we drove to a remote beach on the East coast to camp.

The pop-up tent popped up beautifully, I had bought camping lights in Dragonmart in Dubai so we were well lit as we manipulated the air beds we have into the tent….hmm, the tent advertised as a 3 person tent wouldn’t fit our air beds so we ended up with the air beds halfway up the tent walls…a 3 very small person tent with no air beds methinks! 

Not to be defeated, we just thought ok, so be it, we will sleep, we are tired and we did….for a while! The OH is tall, actually taller than the tent is long and around 2am I woke to much groaning and kerfuffle and the OH trying to make a swift exit out of our 3 man tent (not!) as he had woken with cramp from not being able to stretch out his body length…

He decided to sleep in the car so I had loads of space and fell back to sleep instantly. Before dawn the wind picked up and the flapping of the air vents woke me …then I realized water was dripping onto my face and head and probably my blanket…switched on the torch and the tent roof was covered in water droplets from the humidity….a swift exit to join the OH in the car, but sleep was long gone and as we were on the beach I enjoyed a magical predawn and sunrise experience, what a start to the day!

We had decided to visit the Sur Masirah beaches…this area is a shell collectors holy grail…this area is home to the exquisitely beautiful Punctacteon eloiseae (Abbott, 1973)

I found one of these shells once , in the water pools at low tide out on the sand flats. It was an exquisite moment and as the shell is fairly rare, I would be very lucky to find another one…

Punctacteon eloiseae (Abbott, 1973)…this is the one I found, makes me very happy to share it here…

But first we passed by a very old cemetery on the hillside. Normally, in a Muslim burial the body is wrapped in white cloth, placed in a shallow grave and covered in stones but in the centre of the cemetery is the resting place for some of the early settlers in Masirah from the Hadramaut area of Yemen….

Today was the lowest tide of the week of low tides and a good day to walk on the sand flats. Having found the Eloiseae shell previously, I feel very lucky and am not imbued with the desire to search for more so I’m happy to walk out on the sands looking at everything that normally is covered by the sea.

What’s a colour-fest! Vivid greens, oranges, reds, blues and even a yellow….anemones, sponges and sea squirts all exposed for a few short hours with crabs and starfish to add to the interest….a lovely few hours and over 10,000 steps on sand, a win-win afternoon….

The starfish regrowing a missing leg…

Not the best time to run out of media space on my blog, partway through travelling!

So my blog came to a grinding halt three days ago.

Unable to upload the photos to accompany the post, I couldn’t understand what was happening and I’m using a mobile phone to write and post the blog as we travel, so not all the options are available in comparison to logging in to my site on a computer.

The next day I realised that I had used up my free media allowance for the original blog, so I looked at the options and bought my domain…..but…on reading the instructions for moving the blog to my domain, transferring my existing blog to my new domain is not something I want to do on my phone. It looks like it needs backups, downloads and a quiet afternoon on the computer with no disturbances, not something Im going to get on this trip!

So I created another blog to continue the journey.

Once I’ve posted the first post on the new site, I will add the link to this post for anyone to click onto if you would like to follow me….I’m heading into new territory on the 3/3….watch for the link….

Time to get going…Dubai to Shannah ferry port, Oman….

Getting going was easier said than done.

Post car purchase,we discovered the tyre adaptor key for lowering the spare wheel wasn’t included in the tool kit. Bit of a worry with a 12k plus round trip ahead and trying to find one wasn’t proving easy.

Tyre adaptor key….cost to order 900 dirhams ( over 200 euro!!!)

Lexus had none in the UAE and it was a 3 month delivery for an order so that wasn’t going to work for us on this trip and everywhere else we called didn’t have one in stock…so we bought two spare tyres to carry with us.

Slightly awkward with the spare tyres stacked in the back of the car but, best be safe than sorry. As we had to go back to the car souk to collect the insurance cover, we thought we’d mention the tyre key was missing.

So, car packed it was time to start moving. Heading to the Emirates Road, the OH was fiddling with the GPS unit which wasn’t picking up satellites and therefore, annoyingly, wasn’t working and the trip ahead is a biggie…the route is to Fujairah on the East coast of UAE, cross into Oman at Hatta, down to Masirah island, then to Mirbat in Dhofar, Salalah then along the coast to the Yemen border, then back up through Oman to the Saudi border, cross into Saudi and drive via Abha to Jizan, take the ferry to the Farasan islands in the Red sea for a couple of days then return through the mountains to Taif, then visit a dormant volcano site and return via Riyadh and Abu Dhabi.

A GPS unit is crucial for this trip, so a snap decision was made to replace it, but this meant a return trip to the Creek…..aagh, traffic, delay…what to do!

New GPS installed we headed off to the Car souk, where once the tyre tool predicament was explained , the boys headed off to look at their other cars for sale tool kits in case ours had been misplaced.That story will never be known but we left with the correct tyre tool and a saving of approx 200euro as that’s what this piece of metal costs to buy!!!

The reason for the Fujairah diversion to the journey was to collect Grayana cowrie DNA for scientific research for a project that the Smithsonian institute is carrying out in the Middke East… we had missed low tide from our delays but luckily found enough Cowries to take samples so then it was time to cross the border into Oman at Hatta.

Our route was Hatta, Sinaw, Mahout, Shannah…a long drive and sunset happened just after Hatta, so it was a long night drive…a little stop at the new Lulu supermarket in Sinaw for some fruit and a Tandoori takeaway…and a loo with a seat, not always available in the hinterlands of Oman and my new teflon hips are not yet adjusted to super squat mode, so that was a welcome supermarket stop in other ways!

Then the long haul night drive…. we always start off well, chirpy, chatty, music in the background, but after long hours of peering into the dark distance, trying to spot errant camels and blinded by big trucks, tiredness sets in…

Hitting Mahout we had 45 minutes to the camp site and Shannah port but as we came out of town and hit the Sabhka flats ( salt flats subject to tides), so quite dangerous in the dark if you drifted off the road, we hit intense humidity fog. I’ve never seen anything like it, we were completely blind driving using the GPs to stay within the road parameters, very unnerving and the OH was doing a driving/sleeping mode and so a mutual decision was made to pull off the road at the Comms tower as we knew it was high ground and not Sabkha…you cannot pull off the side of the road in Sabhka area, you may not get the car out again!

After an hour the peasouper fog cleared, the OH had had enough sleep to start the drive and we got to Shannah port at 3 am, we slept in the car, putting the tent up at 3 am is tense stuff, easier to crash in the car…

Car sleeping means you invariably wake with the dawn and as it’s really uncomfortable, you are happy to get up as the sun rises…so we headed off out onto the sandbanks to see what was around at sunrise…

Having had a successful day out on the low tide sandbanks,we decided to take the last ferry of the day across to Masirah and camp there to avoid waking at 4am to get the first local ferry at sunrise and could we could camp on Masirah without pressure to have another early start…

Trip route- Dubai to Fujairah, cross the Oman border at Hatta then to Sinaw and Shannah.

Running around, trying to get ready

Car bought, now it was time to get ourselves sorted and packed, ready to hit the road.

Initially we needed to repair the GPS which meant a visit to the Creek which is the oldest part of Dubai .

Post rush hour, this wasn’t a “sit in traffic forever” journey, the roads that are built to service the city are amazing 4,5,6,7,8 lane highways, daisy loop junctions, and now a lot of development has been done on raised roads and links around developed areas, the road planning is far sighted but the sheer volume of traffic makes rush hours, as in any city, a tedious time to travel around

After the GPS service we had a little time left on the parking meter so had a quick wander around the Abra station ( small boats for crossing the Creek) and the Dhow wharf. The Dhows are sailing mainly to Pakistan and the goods piled up for loading are a diverse mix of air conditioning units, refrigerators, food in bulk, car parts…the list goes on.

Then a swift return through the Souk, a tourist destination on the Creek, beautifully arranged displays of spices, perfumes, pashminas, clothing but each stall with its own tout welcoming you to buy…a smile, a joke and a fast walk deflects the hard sell…

It was time to retrieve the car and head off for yet another urgent trip errand on the other side of the city…

Because we could, we used Beach road instead of the highway, always interesting to take an amble down beach road to see what’s changed on the Dubai waterfront…

Then we remembered it was Valentine’s day so it had to be a meal out.As I wanted to see the Museum of the Future at night, we decided to revisit an old Dubai watering hole, Fibber Magees, Dubai’s oldest and most iconic Irish pub, just next to my old office on Sheik Zayed road…a little trip down memory lane…

The evenings plans fitted in well with visiting the Satwa area to have spare car keys cut, so I had a little wander around the fabric shops whilst the keys were being cut.

The Museum of the Future wasn’t lit up sadly, but it’s still an impressive building

and then to Fibbers for drinks and a meal…as it was Valentine’s day, ladies were on free drinks…my head hurt on the morning of the 15th!

In the Emirate of Dubai…

We are in Dubai for a few days, kindly hosted by the OH’s lovely son and partner, whilst we plan and prepare for the road trip we have spent a few weeks organizing.

First off we have to buy a car suitable for long distance travel. In the past we have borrowed Dubai son’s car but can’t continue to do that, as traveling to the south of Oman and back racks up the mileage and adds to the wear and tear, so we decided that he needed another one which is ours to use for travel.

Day 1 was spent in Dubai traffic, which once you are sitting in it in rush hour or school closing time is godawful, and you remember how bad it was on the way to and from work and thank your age (one of the few times you are grateful to be of a certain age)

A visit the to the Car Souk to check out one we had seen online ( looked good, I would have bought there and then but the OH wanted to review the others) and then a visit to a private seller, with more scheduled.

Then a little visit to Dragonmart which is essentially a massive mall full of stalls selling anything you would ever need.Mainly Chinese goods but it’s anything from heavy duty machinery, furniture, clothing, electronics, such random things as swimming pool equipment, fake flowers, beads, vitamins, food, the list goes on and on…it’s quite an experience, packed with buyers and traders and I can’t count the amount of times I was offered Rolex and designer handbags! We went for a few travel necessities and of course ended up with several unplanned purchases. Temptation is rife to flash the card deep in Dragonmart…

I was looking at lighting for my terrace patio, I desire a mosaicked, brass hanging type of light, slightly exotic….well…what can I say, I found them but I think they are larger than my patio, great to photograph though!

Then we headed off to view the other options. It’s probably enough to say that the one in Sharjah car souk wasn’t going to do us any favors on a long road trip and we never actually found the others in the depth of Sharjah industrial estate, (certainly not a place for designer wear, real or a Dragonmart copy) and after an hour of searching down muddy roads, we decided the first car was as good as we were going to get in our price range so we headed back…a paragraph or so above I complained about Dubai traffic, hah! In comparison to Sharjah it is amazing, Sharjah was basically grid locked, every road at a standstill and no way out of it, but to sit and be patient…

It was a gruelling return to Dubai car souk where we negotiated our deal and tomorrow will return to pay and collect. Exhausted by our day of sitting in traffic, we agreed it was just time to go home!

The Dragon at Dragonmart

Off we go….

The new journey has just started. I can’t quite believe I’ve just had a little walk along the Corniche in Beirut, some Pigeon Rock shots and then a sobering reminder of what war, disaster ( remember the Port explosion), economic strife and corruption has done to a once vibrant city and to its people.

I’ve visited Lebanon a few times but in the 15 years since I’ve been here it’s quite different now. An air of neglect hangs over the city, women and children begging every few steps along the Corniche, battered old cars but an obvious disparity between rich and poor as in the space of 10 mins I counted at least 10 Range Rovers driving past.

One wonders how they are affordable in a country where 6 drinks were billed at 1,440,000 lebanese pounds!! To have paid by euro debit card would have cost 90 euro, but if we found an exchange to change euro into dollars the bill would be $25.00….The OH exchanged the euro in a side of the road exchange and the dollars were paid, phew, need to have your wits about you! And best not to wonder how the luxury cars are bought methinks!

The wine was lovely, white for me and red for the OH from the Kasara vineyard, but excessive at 90 euro, reasonable at $25! I’ve never had a million pound bill before, kept for posterity!

The reason for the Beirut overnight stop is that we have chosen to travel to Dubai using Middle East Airlines as we can buy extra bags on the return journey up to 30kg each for under 50 euros and we have a box of shell books to bring back to Cyprus, kindly gifted to us on our last visit to Muscat.

The use of MEA instead of our usual EK plus a night in the Lancaster Raouche hotel, free airport transfer and a decent room and breakfast has saved 300 euro each.As we are not time constricted, why not, a night in a different city is always interesting!

Some shots from the city…

Almond time….

It’s spring in Cyprus, it’s 2022, it’s still a pandemic but hopefully curving downwards…maybe we can get back to a normal life sometime soon…

Spring is the time here for Almond trees to start flowering, the buds burst into white or pink flowers and it’s a joy to drive round a corner to be confronted by an ethereal cloud of white or pink flowers, dressing the tree like wispy candy floss…the sight adds a lift to the heart!

Just a few shots from yesterday, my first chance to get close up to a flowering tree, trusty iPhone shots! Next week it’s Almond tree photography expedition week !

Tripping to Trozena…

Cyprus, May 2020…how I felt on my first “BIG” nature day out and what I stumbled across…

Whilst we are encouraged to follow the new norm of social distancing, masks and regulations in all aspects of life where you mix with other people, now our quarantine is lifted, we can just go out now.

“Go Out”…after you haven’t been able to just go out without following a raft of procedures, it actually feels quite odd to get your freedom back.

Strangely I’ve had a reluctance to just go out over the last few days. Even more strange is the fact that my going out is to places where I am unlikely to meet anyone in a social context. I’m sure the reluctance will pass, we are just taking steps out into a world where there are new norms…

If you read my blog, you probably get that I like to just go out, not to party and have a wild time, but just to be outside amidst nature.

If I’m travelling in the Middle East and beyond, I’m usually walking miles down empty beaches searching for shells, but in Cyprus, I head to the hills and if there’s the chance to head off down a lonely track, I turn onto the track…

One of my favorite round trips that is a half-day trip, is to head up the Diarizos valley, visit the abandoned village of Trozena and head back to the coast via the village of Dora.

That’s the route I took today, but as the OH is here with me, trapped in Cyprus until UAE lifts restrictions for him to return, I decided to take an alternate route back. I hadn’t wanted to do it alone, as many years ago I got into trouble on the track and have always thought since that it wouldn’t be a wise drive on my own.

It was just a lovely day, the weather is glorious here at the moment and we ended up quite high in the hills, so some lovely views, but I’m very conscious that whilst we have been locked down, I missed the transition from spring to summer, the heat is starting to dry the vegetation out and soon the hills will be brown.

I hope you enjoy my nature diary for today…

At the first stop by the Diarizos river, butterfly heaven and a surprise sighting of a black snake on the lonely road…

Trozena is an old abandoned village in the foothills leading to the Troodos mountain range. There is a small river below the village that feeds the magnificent waterfall into the valley which contains a small pool in a shaded area which is a haven for dragonflies…

 

Wild honeysuckle and views to the Troodos mountains, beautiful plant bugs, a huge lizard, and a random catch of one of the smallest butterflies in Cyprus…

 

On the track to the abandoned village of Maronas, a special butterfly, wonderful old olive trees, landscape views up and down the valley and views of the abandoned village…

 

 

Oman butterfly diary 6- Myrina silensus, Fig Blue…

The butterfly, Myrina silenus, (Fig Blue) is utterly striking once you catch a glimpse of it’s open wings.

My first and actually, only sighting of it was in late October 2019 when we were in butterfly heaven at Wadi Darbat, Dhofar, Southern Oman.

If you have read any of my preceding Oman butterfly diaries, you may have seen the beautiful waterfalls and scenery at Wadi Darbat, if not it’s worth a look at this post to see the landscape.

This small, vivid beauty was found in the lower level of Wadi Darbat on a single bush, which was full of these butterflies on that particular day, only. I returned several times during the week, but never saw them again. In retrospect, it was my lucky day!

Looking down from upper Wadi Darbat to the lower reaches. Note that the landscape looks quite burnt out, but once in the lower Wadi, it’s quite green.

I just had to include the biggest spider I have ever seen.

As I took the photo from the heights, my other half advised me to back off slowly and get my camera set up for a shot, without explaining what was hanging above my head… After a few seconds of a faster heart rate when I saw it, I calmed down to try to get the perfect shot!

After that “Oh my (insert expletive)” moment, we drove down to the lower reaches of the wadi and searched around, actually for dragonflies, but the bushes were full of butterflies and on one bush, right next to the water, I spotted a brown butterfly with an unusual shape…

 

I felt it was worth waiting for it to open its wings… I’m glad I waited, it was one of those “Ohhh, wow” moments…

 

Information on this butterfly is taken verbatim from the book “Butterflies of Oman” by Torben and Kiki Larsen.

This is a striking and absolutely unmistakable member of the Lycaenidae, which is found throughout Africa and Southern Arabia. Together with Coeliades anchises it is one of the most characteristic of the true African species which have managed to penetrate beyond Dhofar to Northern Oman. It has not been found in the Musandam peninsula, but may well occur since its food plants are plentiful there. Generally it is quite common except during the coldest part of the year in Northern Oman. As indicated by its vernacular name, the food plants are species of fig; experience in Africa shows that almost any species will do.

At least three species of Ficus are used in Dhofar. Adult butterflies are fond of sunning themselves on the leaves of the tree of their birth from where they fly off on brief sorties at great speed, often returning to the same perch. Flowers hold no strong attraction for silenus, but occasionally they will settle on ripe figs broken open by birds.

During my many Oman travels, I have only found this butterfly once in Wadi Darbat on a single bush, which doesn’t appear to be the case when the Larsens wrote their book in the 1980s. Maybe our world climate changes are affecting this species…

 

Oman butterfly diary 5- Colotis Danae, The Scarlet Tip…

Wadi Darbat is located in the Dhofar Governorate in Southern Oman.

It is a spectacular wadi which forms at Darbat lake where the water runs into the wadi from sinkholes, then wanders through the upper valley, then down a series of waterfalls and finally spills over the escarpment in a magnificent waterfall, cascading from a height of up to 30metres, which is at its best during the Khareef season (Monsoon).

In the lower wadi valley that runs to the sea at Khor Ruri, the river banks during and after the Khareef (monsoon) are green and resplendent with flowers and the whole area is a magnet for butterflies.

One, in particular, is striking for its Scarlet tips on the wings.

Colotis Danae, The Scarlet Tip is a beautifully marked butterfly but flies quite erratically and quite low, so it is easy to lose sight of them behind bushes and is hard to photograph.

One day, whilst were concentrating on these lower reaches of Wadi Darbat, I struck Scarlet Tip gold and came across several nectaring on plants very close to the edge of the water.

Butterflies of Oman, authors Torben and Kiki Larsen, for identification help.

Oman butterfly diary 4- Precis hierta, The Yellow Pansy…

My butterfly bible for Oman is “Butterflies of Oman” by Torben and Kiki Larsen, produced in 1980 in the Uk for the Office of the Adviser for Conservation of the Environment to the Government of Oman.

I haven’t found any recent updates, so possibly names have changed, there was a reprint in 1984, but I don’t have that version.

The binominal name is Junonia hierta, but Larsen uses the synonym Precis Hierta, and as I’m not up to the right level in the world of scientific classification, I’m following the Larsen’s identification!

This beautiful butterfly is described by the Larsens, as one of the most common butterflies in Dhofar (Southern Oman) on the coast and in the mountains. It had not been found in the North of Oman at the time of publishing and I have never seen in it during my forays into North Oman.

During my nature searching days in Dhofar, in October and November 2019, I only found two of these butterflies. They were up on the high escarpment above Mirbat.

We traveled the whole of the coastline, from the Yemen border to the north, and spent much time in areas where they should be prolific but, sadly only two sightings…

They are a beautiful species of butterfly.

I hope when I finally am able to return I will have more success in finding the numbers previously indicated…

 

May 2020: End of quarantine restrictions, heading back out to nature in Cyprus….

In Cyprus, some freedom now, after staying safe at home…

May 21st, 2020 was quite a landmark day in this strange and apocalyptic year.

In Cyprus, like many other countries, we have been quarantined in our homes under curfew and government restrictions that have only allowed one exit per day for one of 8 reasons.

It was managed by sending a text to obtain approval, the phone had to be carried plus any passport or registration documents. Police checks were everywhere and anyone found without permission or documents was fined from 300 euro up, depending on the severity of the offense.

On the 12th of May, Phase 1 of the lockdown lift was introduced. That was to allow the population to leave their homes three times a day for up to three hours at a time, as a gradual re-introduction of more population movement…a little test of the infectious waters, so to speak.

Then on 21st May our quarantine restrictions were lifted under Phase 2 of society re-entering the world, where the unseen threat of COVID-19 lurks in your consciousness and the population of the Republic of Cyprus were free to leave their homes.

The nightly curfew was lifted, and we no longer have to send a text to obtain approval to leave our homes for the 8 reasons initially allowed.

I have no criticism of the actions our government took to protect this small island.

New cases have been decreasing recently and today, 23rd May, was the first day we had no new cases, so, in my view, a successful operation and it’s up to us, as the population, to continue to follow the new norms that will dominate our lives for the foreseeable future.

Normally I am out in the hills with my camera a couple of times a week, especially March, April, and May when nature in Cyprus is at its glorious best.

The hills are green, wildflowers are rampantly growing, there is a constant buzz of bees, the dragonflies start to emerge, butterflies are taking wing and the whole island is awash with pollinators and vibrant color.

It’s the time to tramp the hills before the summer heat burns out the foliage, but, like everyone else, we missed it this year.

So when we got to the 12th, after 5 supermarket visits since March and no other exits from home, I had to escape.

The nearest get close-to-nature valley to my home, is the Esouza river valley, with its wealth of dragonflies, butterflies, and flora.

We headed to the water pools at Ayia Varvara, a small village along the Esouza river, which is also a magnet to our local bird watchers, but I missed out on the bird photos, sadly!

I wasn’t disappointed, having only spent time in my garden, to be walking in nature was utter bliss…

Some of the finds in the 3-hour escape…

Bugs and flowers…

Butterflies…

Damselflies…

Dragonflies…

A little disclaimer: Some of my identifications could be incorrect. Dragonflies are hard to identify, I’ve had a year of accompanying a dragonfly recorder and I’m still learning. If any mistakes are spotted, please correct me in the comments…Bug and Flower ID is ongoing, to be updated when I have a positive ID…

Kenya diary: Elephants at Amboseli…

Amboseli National Park, formerly Maasai Amboseli Game Reserve, is a national park in Kajiado South Constituency, Kenya, about 240 km southeast of Nairobi

The park is 39,206 hectares (392 km; 151 sq mi) in size at the core of an 8,000 km (3,100 sq mi) ecosystem that spreads across the Kenya-Tanzania border. The local people are mainly Maasai, but people from other parts of the country have settled there attracted by the successful tourist-driven economy and intensive agriculture along the system of swamps that makes this low-rainfall area, average 350 mm (14 in), one of the best wildlife-viewing experiences in the world with 400 species of birds including water birds like pelicans, kingfishers, crakes, hamerkop and 47 raptor species.

The park protects two of the five main swamps, and includes a dried-up Pleistocene  lake and semiarid vegetation.

The park is famous for being the best place in the world to get close to free-ranging elephants.

Other attractions of the park include opportunities to meet Maasai and visit a Maasai village. The park also has views of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

And when it says above “get close to free-ranging elephants” well, I hadn’t expected to be standing in an ancient camper van, head and shoulders poking through the open roof amidst a herd of elephants crossing the track in front and behind us.

Close seemed too close!

I was quite scared at first, but our guide reassured us that the driver was alert to the herd and would move quickly, but we were to not to do anything to make them pay attention to us.

Standing in a what seemed like extremely fragile protection from these enormous elephants, I didn’t feel particularly convinced that we were safe, but we had had a 4.30am start, suffered a 4 hour drive along the Nairobi to Mombasa road, and I was in the midst of a herd of elephants that I had come all this way to try and see, so I started taking photos….

Being scared turned to being awed and I realised that I was really lucky to have this close experience…

We did have a little incident as we were further round the park.

A very large elephant was running along the side of the track, quite a distance away .

As we passed the elephant changed direction and started to chase our little tin can, sorry… camper van.

I managed two very close shots before the guide asked us to sit down as they were going to drive faster as the elephant was charging us. I instantly complied!

Amboseli park information from Wikipedia….

Kenya diary… Grey Crowned Cranes in a mating dance…

My very first post on my brand new WordPress site way back in 2013, when I thought I’d be a blogger, having done all my 101’s, before I launched myself out there in the big wide blogging world was a tiny and very nervous step into blogging and I just threw out a teeny, weeny little précis of a truly amazing weekend trip.

I re-visited my photographs during our current lockdown and was quite amazed that I actually managed to get some really good photos.

As well as it being my first foray into blogging, it was also my first trip with a proper camera, which I really didn’t know how to use properly, apart from the auto function. (FYI it was a NikonD3200, but I think I bought a few days before and had no idea of its many functions, so it was a point and shoot expedition)

I’d booked a random travel to Nairobi for a weekend on a special offer  (Dubai was a really good place for last minute special offers) and I booked a trip online to Amboseli National park.

I hadn’t quite taken into account that Amboseli was on the Tanzania border and was a 4 hour drive from Nairobi, but, hey-ho, when the company responded to my booking request and asked for a 4.30am pick-up, I just clicked the ok box!

Experience now tells me there were many closer places, but actually I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

I cannot describe the African light, especially in Amboseli, it’s totally different to our polluted European (and other) skies….

The day was a magical experience I will never forget. I have so many photos, I’m going to break this up into several posts but one of the many magical moments was stumbling across a Grey crane mating dance and being able to photograph the whole performance.

I wasn’t party to the result, they did fly away after the dance for a bit of privacy, but I did have a David Attenborough moment as the incredible performance took place right in front on my lens…

 

For information on the Crane ( thank you Wikipedia)

The grey crowned crane (Balearica regulorum), also known as the African crowned crane, golden crested crane, golden-crowned crane, East African crane, East African crowned crane, Eastern crowned crane, South African crane, is a bird in the crane  family, Gruidae. It is found in Eastern and Southern Africa, and is the national bird of Uganda.

The grey crowned crane is closely related to the black crowned crane, and the two species have sometimes been treated as the same species. The two are separable on the basis of genetic evidence, calls, plumage and bare parts, and all authorities treat them as different species today.

There are two subspecies .The East African B. r. gibbericeps (crested crane) occurs in the east of the DRC and in Uganda, of which it is the national bird represented in its national flag, and Kenya to Eastern S. Africa.

It has a larger area of bare red facial skin above the white patch than the smaller nominate species, B. r. regulorum (South African crowned crane), which breeds from Angola south to South Africa.

Burj Khalifa, Dubai… a little light show…

The Burj Khalifa is a spectacular building and landmark in Dubai.

At over 828 meters (2,716.5 feet) and more than 160 stories, Burj Khalifa holds the following records: Tallest building in the world, tallest free-standing structure in the world, and the highest number of stories in the world (at the moment).

It dominates Dubai, can be seen from everywhere in the city and it is extraordinarily graceful for such a mammoth construction.

My son was visiting me, so we did the tourist trail and watched the early evening light show on the facade.

It was quite an event.

A few photos below, they show how spectacular the building looks with at night with the changing light show…

January 2020: Dubai Butterfly Garden…

Given my interest in butterflies and photographing them, a visit to Dubai Butterfly garden was a must, when I was back in the Emirate in early 2020.

I have never been to a Butterfly garden before, so I didn’t quite know what to expect. The entrance shouted “Theme garden”, but it wasn’t going to deter me, having made the effort to get there..

Beautifully done, as always in Dubai, the building consisted of 4 large garden rooms, full of trees, flowers, sitting areas in small gazebos with different butterflies, organized by region.

So, alphabetically, the butterflies,

(My OH very kindly identified them for me as I didn’t take notes in situ, (slap self for that omission, too much fluttering, and camera action), but it gave him something to do during this morning’s lockdown and as it was an important task, he could avoid home cleaning duty! Grateful thanks to the OH, he did an excellent job, but it’s also a little disclaimer!) Please hover over the photo for the name…

 

 

If you have got to this stage of the post, my grateful thanks for looking at the butterflies… I know it’s butterfly exhaustion by this stage, but there are some unusual offerings of butterfly art in the next part of the post…

You exit through the inevitable shop which consists of butterfly souvenirs and pictures that are made by using butterflies….hmmm, you can see for yourself below, some lovely ideas but I wasn’t rushing to buy one, not to my taste, I prefer to see them alive and I decided after my visit I prefer to see them in the wild.

 

However, reflecting,  I did have the opportunity to see some beautiful butterflies, which I would not have the opportunity see in the wild as I’m quite sure now my future travel is limited for a while…so, whilst I felt slightly uncomfortable about the concept during my visit, whilst I was editing the photos for this post, I did think that I was very lucky to have seen some extraordinarily beautiful butterflies.

Realistically, I have to conclude that given my age and our current world situation, I’m not going to be hacking through jungles any time in the near future, so, I’m actually quite glad I did visit and can look back the photos of these beautiful butterflies…

There are also butterfly pictures of members of the Ruling families of the Emirates, a typically local mark of the affection for the Rulers.

I find it quite hard to imagine, that in either the UK or the US, anyone would think of creating Boris or Donald in such an affectionate platform. It was all a little strange, but, it is a popular attraction and as I’m in lockdown away from the UAE, I’m very glad I did take the time to visit…

 

 

Zanzibar: Intensely blue skies and rainbow sunsets- Part 2…

Zanzibar, June 2017:  After a couple of days at the north of the island, I felt that the final day and night we had booked up there was wasted time, we had seen everything at the North tip and because I think you know by now if you read this blog, I’m not a beach bunny… I want to go somewhere and see it all.

I wanted time in Stonetown, I’d been reading up on the history and whilst you can say “Oh, we’ll come back another time”, well, practically, you probably won’t return and I so wanted to see Stonetown… so much history and the historical connection to Oman, another of my travel places, (a link about the connection history ) Slavery was a big part of the connection, sadly…

So, after breakfast, I found a room in an old traditional hotel in Stonetown at a good price (wifi and online booking is such a godsend in this day and age, instant confirmation…let’s go!) we cut our losses at Kendwa and headed off to town.

Stonetown is utterly fascinating and I was in my element, poking around the ancient streets, checking out the doors… see links to my earlier posts about the doors and old town , my Stonetown desire was all about the historical doors initially…

We went on a walkabout, we had about 36 hours in town and sleep could be minimal.

What a place… such history, such vibrancy, I just loved Stonetown.

At sunset, we headed down to the main beach, with everyone else in town, it appeared.

Sunset was a big moment that night, the streets were humming with life, street food everywhere, it was totally unexpected and so vibrant.

It was just after Eid, so I think that after Ramadan, there were a lot of people out, enjoying the beautiful moment after a month of piety …The beach was packed, loads of people in the water as the sun went down, swimming, playing, and enjoying life…

it was lovely to be part of the exuberant crowd and catch the glorious Stonetown sunset…

Zanzibar: Intensely blue skies and rainbow sunsets- Part 1

2017: An Africa trip, Mafia island (yes, really, it’s called Mafia island, just had to go there when it came to trip planning, Mafia will get a post of its own soon) Zanzibar and Dar Es Salaam were the places for the trip plan.

Zanzibar was the “sunset over the sea” place of the trip.

In Zanzibar, we were perfectly placed for a sunset view towards the African coast, and the sunsets were really something else.

African light is just different, possibly the lack of air pollution… I don’t know why, I have no science knowledge, but I do notice on my travels that in remoter areas there is just a different clarity of light and intensity of color in the sky, day and night. So different from what I have been used to in Europe and Dubai.

We arrived at the Kendwa Rocks hotel late afternoon, drove up to Nungwi beach at the tip of the island, and just strolled along the beach, soaking up the atmosphere of this unique island, but out across the sea, an African sky drama was happening, a potential storm moving around in the distance, flooding the skies with drama and it was the backdrop to our walk, light and dark playing out in the distance until the sun finally set in vivid color…a beautiful experience to look back on.

Please enjoy my photos of the Zanzibar skies…

Thailand diary: Buddha, monkeys and weird and wonderful temple statues, Part 2…

In these strange times, my concentration is quite distracted. I’m drifting from one thing to another rather a lot and, on posting my previous post, I completely forgot that the ending should have been in another temple!

I did think this morning when I looked back at the original post “Oh, never mind, no-one knows anyway where I went” but actually the last temple was the “weird and wonderful temple statues” bit and in my thoughts, the images are too weird and wonderful not to post, so…. hey ho, I’ve climbed back onto the scooter, pootling on down to the road to Wat Tham Khao Tao temple to park up and start walking…

It’s quite a climb up to the top of the hill where there is a massive Buddha statue at the top and excellent views towards Hua Hin.

On the way up the concrete steps, you pass through a cave of effigies of well-revered monks and rooms with plenty of Buddha statues to worship…Whilst everywhere is full of gold, vibrant red and clashing colors, it’s actually all very serene and peaceful. There were no other visitors during our climb, there are many other more convenient temples to visit in the Hua Hin area and possibly the climb is off-putting, but it worked to our advantage!

On the corner of the steps, a rest by the laughing Buddha…probably placed to bring cheer to those toiling up the steps in August’s heat and humidity, luckily there are no photos of me and my humidity hairstyle at this stage!

 

Past my most favorite scary statue ever… guess which one?

And then a little break at a bell ringing area with another impressive Buddha on a corner…

An effigy of Ganesha, the Hindu god, surprisingly in this temple but, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva are the three most important Hindu gods representing the recurring and continual cycles of birth, life, death, and rebirth.

This trinity, along with the god Indra, Ganesha and some enlightened divinities and demons, have been converted to the Buddhist doctrine according to Buddhist belief. Hence, these gods often occur as guardians of temples and monasteries. In addition, they may also be seen attending the Buddha on im­portant events in his life.

Another Buddha break at the top of another set of steps, he is very relaxed, but does have a dragon to ward off interlopers… it was a pleasant pause…

Nearly at the top, some rather elegant and vibrant statues, the light was good for the photos of these rather ethereal figures. By this stage, I wished I understood a bit more about what they represented, it was a regret that I didn’t have a guided tour so I could understand the reason and reverence for these slightly odd statues…

Just before the top, a beautiful Buddha room…

Reaching the top, fairly tired as it was a hot and sticky time in August, it was worth the climb.The view was quite stunning, back towards Hua Hin…

And a beautiful Buddha, serenely sitting at the top of the hill. Well worth the endless climb…

A lovely place to visit, off the beaten track, not busy at all, possibly the climb put this temple off the tourist temple trail.

After a scooter ride back to the comforting sanctuary of the hotel, it was time for a relaxing sundowner amidst the water flowers…

Thailand diary: Buddha, monkeys and weird and wonderful temple statues…

I picked up a too-good-to-be-true offer from one of the websites that offer holiday deals from Dubai.

Thailand, a week in the Evason Six Senses, Pranchanburi, Hua Hin, accommodation was a private villa/room with plunge pool, a week’s stay, less than a week in a comparable Dubai hotel…

Whoop-whoop,  a bargain, ok, it was August, sussed the weather and it is the rainy season in August in Thailand, but, living in Dubai with temperatures of 45+ during August, a holiday in a rainy season is actually quite tempting and beach holidays are long past now, exploring is the key…. so, swiftly booked and including a 3-day tour of Chang Mai, Maehongson and Pai, The Golden Triangle area, added to maximize the Eid holiday leave I could take from work.

On arrival at the Evason, after settling into plunge pool villa (divine) we took a stroll around and instantly understood why the bargain holiday was on offer. The Evason sits behind the beach road, a short cross to the beach, but the beach road was being re-done, completely dug up with bulldozers, JCB’s and huge boulders stacked for the sea defenses, so there was no access to the beach at all.

Well, that didn’t matter in the slightest to us…we really had found a bargain that suited us, lying on a beach is in the past…

The area is all within the most beautiful National parks so we hired a scooter and trundled around exploring and enjoying the beauty of the forest area.

One of the joys of Asia is stumbling across exuberantly decorated temples and strange statues in odd places. Thailand didn’t disappoint. The color is always vibrant, unexpected and always a glorious discovery.

Pootling along on the bike, past prawn farms, then suddenly finding monkeys on the side of the road and then to arrive in a tiny little coastal fishing village to be greeted by a magnificent crab roundabout highly decorated in gold and red, well, it’s an assail on the senses and a lift to the spirits.

Some of the sights…

Between Pranchanburi and Hua Hin there is a beautiful forest park, so one day we decided a little scooter ramble was the order of the day. Very luckily I’ve been able to pick up the routes and shrines on Google maps, so I can find the temples and shrines many years on.

One of the joys of trundling around on a scooter is that as a passenger and pootling along at a slow place, I  have the time to scan the surroundings and spot anything that looks interesting. Parking is always easy on a scooter, just stop…

Spotting a golden head towering above the trees we stopped at a shrine. I think this one is Jow Por Big Mountain Shrine, but I can’t be sure….stunning buddhas though… I was quite awed on seeing these in the mountaintop setting, in perfect light high above a beautiful landscape…

Just down the road, I spotted another golden buddha head and an odd crocodile…well, we just had to stop…this is Chao Mae Tubtim Thong shrine… I cannot find the reason for the gi-enormous crocodile sculpture at this shrine, but it was unexpected and quite fascinating that in this beautiful place with glorious views and a truly stunning buddha statue there was a massive painted concrete crocodile..I’ve tried to research it, but without getting deeper into Thai Buddhism, I can’t find an explanation…the photos are worthy of posting though!

 

 

 

Orchids in Thailand…

Whilst I’m in our world’s lockdown, I’m using the time to look at all my photo data. There is rather a lot and it’s opened up some forgotten memories too…

My Thailand travels were before I realized I enjoyed photography and made it a feature in my travels. I was using a fairly basic camera at that stage and I think I didn’t even look to consider adding the travels into the blog,  but, actually, as I review the photos, some are worthy of inclusion.

I loved to see the orchids in Thailand, cultivated or wild… some of these are from a Chang Mai Orchid farm and others from a stop off on a canal tour around Bangkok…

 

Vietnam diary- Images of Huế, life on the streets…

When traveling I always want to see how life really is on the back streets, planning my trip to make sure I have city time, if it’s safe to do so…

In Huế, The Citadel and the Imperial City were my main reasons to visit, but I had the extra time to see how people live behind the tourism facade.

I set off to walk around Huế city centre, but I wasn’t too strong, an old hip injury decided to kick in on the beautifully paved streets, it was very humid and I was beginning to despair of my capabilities to walk around Huế.

I had seen many cyclos on the roads.

Cyclos are one-man cycling you around in a sort of front pod, so you relax in comfort and he cycles you, yeah, I was uncomfortable with the concept, it seemed so colonial and privileged, punkah-wallah era, but very normal in Vietnam.

So, I was just having a rest under a leafy tree wondering how long it would take me to hobble back to the hotel and then my Huế saviour cycled up to me.

Offering his cyclo services in a completely charming way, (the price was minimal to a European) and I told him I didn’t think I was comfortable with the concept, but if he could just take me back to the hotel I would give him a good tip. I was about 2kms from the hotel, then he said to me “Don’t you want to explore Huế?”

 

I said I would love to and I didn’t really think I could do the walking and with a welcoming smile he stopped,  “Come on, climb in, let’s go”.

Easily persuaded, as my hip was really hurting, I clambered in and settled into comfort. Cyclo man lived in a village 12km outside Hue, uphill…so at the end of each day, after cycling in 12kms, then cycling around all day, he then cycled home a further 12 km uphill. Humbling really…

He realized I wanted to see street life, I accepted I couldn’t do it on my own and he was just such lovely company, perfect English, guiding, bending over my shoulder as he cycled so I could hear his commentary and such a historian of Huế city.

After the first trip, we negotiated a price for the next day and he was my Hue mentor.

As a local, he had the knowledge of the side of the city that I wanted to see. He got my measure quite quickly, so took me into places that maybe are not on the tourist trail and, as a local, paved a path for my photography of street life in Hue coercing people to interact with me, guiding me through markets, stopping for street food and choosing the best for me to eat.

Temples, markets, street vendors, back streets, my view from the cyclo caught the reality of everyday life in the bustling city.

This lovely Cyclo man, he made Huế come alive for me…

 

                                                                              Images of Huế…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vietnam diary- Mosaic madness in Hoi-An…

I took a solo visit to Hoi-An and Hue in Vietnam in November 2016. I’d always wanted to visit both cities, but on our previous trips to Vietnam, the focus had been on our seashell hobby, this time I could go where I pleased…

The OH had headed off to Salt Lake City for a company conference, inviting me to join him.

But after researching Salt Lake City, the prospect of 7 days exploring Mormon America alone didn’t float my boat, so I decided to head East.

I had an amazing time as a solo, female and, ok, as an older traveler.

Age has its benefits, the Vietnamese were polite, charming, helpful and at no time did I feel uncomfortable traveling on my own.

In fact, I wished I’d added in extra days to visit Hanoi, maybe another time, when our world is safe to travel in again.

As it’s the time of coronavirus in the present day and I’m staying at home, I’ve finally had the chance to sit and edit my photo library and I realized I neglected my Vietnam trip on the blog.

So, a few odd memories from Vietnam…

When you visit Hoi-An, a world heritage site, there is no entrance fee for the old town but you are advised to buy a ticket book to enter the traditional heritage houses in town. It’s well worth buying as you enter the city gates, as you cant buy individual entrance tickets at the houses.

In the street, a fantastical dragon creation, a taste of what was to come…

One of the places I visited in town was the Quang Trieu (Cantonese) Assembly Hall. It was built in 1885 by Chinese overseas who came from Guangdong/ Cantonese (China). This hall is quite ornate and colorful.

An architecturally beautiful structure, with many Chinese paintings, lacquered furniture and spirals of incense sticks, the subtle fragrance permeating the air, but it’s the garden that sticks in my mind.

Walking down the corridor to this door, you could not imagine what lay beyond in the garden.

Through the door a traditional garden with a huge fountain of writhing dragons, decorated with pottery mosaic. Totally unexpected, quirky and quite fascinating. The random concrete goats added to the surreal surroundings…

Oman Butterfly diary 3-Charaxes varanes bertrami (Riley, 1931), Pearl Charaxes…

This is a butterfly that has eluded my camera on previous visits to Dhofar, Southern Oman, or so I thought.

The presence of this butterfly in Oman is limited to the Dhofar region. It is common in Africa, but there are no current records from Southwestern Arabia and Yemen, however, any investigation is not easily possible in Yemen.

As it stands the population in Dhofar seems to be quite isolated and the subspecies found locally is named in honour of explorer Bertram Thomas who caught the species in Dhofar, whilst preparing for his Rub Al Khali expedition in 1930. The butterfly seems to be relatively common in open parts of the scarp. Both sexes are fond of fermenting fruit, rotting crab or shrimp and patches of urine.

We had seen them, fluttering past on scarp tracks, stopped the jeep, but I chased in vain as they tauntingly settled, then flew away fast whenever I thought I had one in focus for THE shot. They are fast on the wing and often fly high. Fairly frustrating, but then sometimes an unexpected opportunity arises.

In October 2019, we decided to have a day visiting the various Ayn’s (valleys) which form at the base of the Dhofar escarpment.

Usually, there are spectacular waterfalls during the Khareef (monsoon) season and the Ayn’s are lush and emerald green, home to a variety of endemic and migratory birds, butterflies, dragonflies, and flora.

Khareef had finished a month previously but owing to some unusual weather in the region, the drying out of the environment hadn’t quite reached its usual barren state.

In one of the Ayn’s we started to climb up towards the escarpment and I spotted the Pearl fluttering from branch to branch. We noticed there were two, but only one settled on branches.

Sadly, it was torn and ragged, probably at the end of its flying season, but I managed to catch some shots.

Whilst looking through photos from 2018 from a location 20 km away, I found I had photographed this butterfly before and in much better condition. Only one photograph, but a good catch. It was fairly gratifying to stumble across the photograph, two years later!

 

Habitat Information from the “The Butterflies of Oman” by Torben and Kiki Larsen.